It’s late. Mouths water like volcanic magma. Despite one’s level of drunkenness, at 3:45 a.m., there’s only one answer: BTB Burrito.

The snappy title says it all. This fast (only a few nanoseconds slower than Jimmy John’s), late-night staple delivers reasonably priced Mexican-style favorites in mammoth portions. First impressions upon penetrating the doorway of this 810 South State Street classic may include surprise about the small size of the room itself (yes, it is a single room). Yet this is what infuses the restaurant with the charm and simple flair that yields huge sales.

It’s ponderable to consider BTB’s long-lasting tradition and recurrent patronage to be backed by the distinct aura of the place. The music: Irrelevant dubstep bangers that will be followed by “Vamos a la Playa” in a questionably arranged track-list. The staff: ever-smiling and singing rotund men and a giddy cash register make up the majority of the late-night shifts (rumor has it, the employees recall orders of frequent customers). The food: Exhale.

Where to begin? Besides the high-viscosity queso that befriends the mildly salted tortilla chips, the tough-yet-chewy churros are in a league of their own. As advertised, burritos are king here. Word to the wise: Make it messy. No outrageous amount of guacamole or salsa will keep these ambidextrous burrito rollers from handing folks a first-rate meal.

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