Established in 2006 by two brothers, Los Angeles-based Skingraft finds itself some place between the antipodes of fire and ice, attitudinal and angelic, ranklement and peace. It is along these spectra that Skingraft comes to life, bringing with it incendiary oriental patterns, ethereal white lace and self-aware midnight pleather.
Skingraft is nothing new to the editorial universe of fashion, gracing the covers of Rolling Stone, WWD, Elle and GQ with wearers with names such as Rhianna, A$AP Rocky and Marilyn Manson. It doesn’t matter if A$AP, without warrant, attacked Hood By Air in some disposable overnight track – if A$AP endorses, let alone wears, your shit, you’re doing something right. Although its SS15 selection seems to have more independent curations devoid of a cohesive narrative, Skingraft finds a distinctive voice, albeit one with tonal variety. They play with colorways that transcend emotion, as their entire trichromatic show consisted of glowing whites, silencing blacks and gut-punching reds. Respectively, there is one to declare innocence, one to debunk it and one to say, “Look. I dare you.”
With some of its roots stemming from streetwear, the drop-crotch sweats and man-skirts fall a bit flat for Skingraft – too out of their element and too Japanese-influenced to do material damage on this side of the Pacific. Where this house really triumphs is in its midweight bombers, they make the sleeves optional and cut the dresses mid-length, both of which add a post-punk aesthetic before getting too angry in a proto-punk fashion. The daring silhouettes favor the slim and the performance art-oriented. Something about the avant-garde has always lauded the intrepid and thin people of the world.