NYFW Roundup Spring 2016

Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 7:03pm

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham Buy this photo
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Brace yourselves people, fashion week is coming — well, the rest of them, anyway. New York Fashion Week is almost over and your favorite Daily Style writers have rounded up some of the best collections of the week. Sit back, relax: here’s NYFW in a nutshell.

DVF

Diane Von Furstenberg’s NYFW show comes off the heels of the 40th anniversary of the brand’s signature wrap dress and designers of the Spring 2016 Ready To Wear collection pay homage to the timeless garment: v-shaped necklines and cinched waists were abound on Sunday’s DVF runway.

The collection works to display its strengths through diverse pops of ’80s-esque colors, neutral shades of beige and ultimately a slew of sleek black and white dresses. Each aspect of DVF’s show displays the range of her talent and brand. The bolder pieces, featuring various floral prints, are extreme, yet accessible. The solids each have their own flare — a silver cheetah print around the waist, or colorful flare covering pockets — creating cohesiveness across the diverse collection.

Butterflies make an appearance a few too many times. First, they’re embroidered in gold on the collections white dresses and then again on black dresses (the second time around is decidedly better). Nonetheless, the experimentation with butterflies does well on the show’s finale garment. Gigi Hadid’s black, floor-length gown with a plunging neckline featured only two visible gold butterflies — just the right amount.

Between her killer line-up of models (Kendall Jenner and Karlie Kloss preceded Hadid), expansive collection and the design house’s new E! television series, it would appear that DVF is looking to expand its clientele into the younger generation. This collection has a range that will surely net a few on-lookers.

Florals for spring may not be groundbreaking, but under the prowess of Von Furstenberg, they sure are stunning. — Christian Kennedy

GIVENCHY

Riccardo Tisci dissects what it means to be a woman in today’s world with his latest Spring 2016 collection for Givenchy and, well, it’s complicated.

Each piece — in white, black, gold or silver — seems simple at first glance. However just like every modern day woman, the designs are complex and intricate.  

Beginning with the more soft, and some would say traditional, side of things, we saw a lot of silks embroidered with lace coming down the runway. Camisoles in neutral tones and slip dresses paired with sleek black pants for work — it embraced the elegance of traditional women’s fashion and coupled it with the edginess of the working woman.

The soft tones and fabrics seen at the start of the collection soon began to evolve; paired with structured and hard-looking lace-up military-esque heels, showcasing Tisci’s societal transition. To be a woman today also brings with it ideas of strength and power. Women are soft and strong, domineering and exquisite.  Models strutted down in tuxedo jackets, pinstriped suits equipped with flared pants (yes, pinstripes are back), portraying the ultimate badass woman, a force to be reckoned with both at home and in the world.

On the one hand, we have been brought up to associate women with classic femininity, oftentimes being contrasted to the likes of ethereal goddesses and otherworldly phenomenon. Tisci’s couture collection was featured intermittently throughout the show and provided a contrast between dark and light. With some pieces emanating golden tones, a crowd favorite being a structured white jacket covered with metallic gold embellishments, equipped with a (badass) matching headpiece. Then darker looks featuring black ruffles, feathers, net and mesh, oftentimes all at once, still managed to work in nicely with the rest of the collection. — Mariam Sheikh

Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott gets it. Jeremy Scott gets us. Jeremy Scott got it right.

Scott doesn’t strike me as a wise old man, but more of the fashion world’s witty uncle who inadvertently delivers cold truths in a sardonic manner. And that’s just what he did with his Spring 2016 collection.

Was he sourcing inspiration from the remarkable, otherworldly production quality of his K-pop coterie? Likely. Did he just release Miley’s upcoming wardrobe? Probably. Was this the result of an acid trip gone right? Signs point to yes.

Fashion’s virtuous oddball presented his newest line on Monday, one that rendered our pop-culture poisoned minds onto the bodies of models — hello, Hadid sisters — topped off with boisterous bouffants. In a mixed bag of crop tops, A-line silhouettes, a crop of menswear looks (will 2016 be the year of the speedo and loafers combo?), leotards and even a metallic cone-bra, Scott’s line is marked by his signature, absurdist indicators of effective artistry — he mocks us as he mocks himself, and it’s completely fascinating.

Punctuated by punchy hues of orange and cobalt, along with funky patchwork and scribbles (please pause to admire that pleather-accented, scribbled trench), the collection is cartoonish and animated with an overarching ‘60s sci-fi flair. It’s costume-y, yet utterly wearable.

Effective fashion, however outlandish it appears to the naked eye, performs a cultural critique, and Scott’s is obvious. It’s no novel idea to hear that our lives are saturated in screen time, rampant materialism and overexposure, but to see our societal flaws in such a meta-presentation, outsourced from a visionary guilty of these weaknesses himself, makes for a living, sartorial think piece worthy of a ponder.  – Caroline Filips

Victoria Beckham

From the first appearance of Gingham, it was clear that this collection was going to be different for Victoria Beckham. For spring/summer, VB landed far outside her comfort zone, somewhere in the land of urban surf prints and crinkled duchesse satin. Midi swing dresses, printed separates and flats were constant throughout the show to showcase VB’s attempt at a fun and carefree collection. A standout look featured a white above-the-ankle swing dress with primary red and blue details and chunky white flats.

The collection played with primary colors as overlays to all-white ensembles or as color-blocked separates. These looks beautifully emulate the fun and carefree spirit VB was hoping to achieve with this collection. Then came the urban surf prints and multi-print looks. When used sparingly, the prints looked fantastic, rocking the LA-London duality that is synonymous with the Beckham fam. For some of the looks, though, the emphasis on prints took away from the overall craftsmanship of the striking culottes and jackets. Kudos to VB for trying and succeeding in taking a large step toward the carefree and fun.

Aside from the typical buzz about Brooklyn and David sitting front row, the Victoria Beckham show created a significant discussion in the fashion world. British news struck out against Beckham for her skinny and miserable looking models. The show has ignited a discussion about models’ looks, but also about British news’ obsession with Victoria’s body image. This has been an on-going problem for her since her Spice Girls days. Some argue that her models look no different than those of other designers, while others state this is the trademark VB. — Mara MacLean

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang’s 10th anniversary collection debuted at NYFW and came equipped with lavish performers and an impressive front row audience. The atmosphere of the show was contrasted with what some would call the old school collection.

Wang held true to his downtown girl aesthetic featuring staple pieces such as a shrunken bomber and biker-esque leather jackets. Stripes appear to be the hottest thing to (attempt) to make a comeback this Fashion Week, and this collection was no exception. Showcasing combinations of various patterns, materials, styles and colors, Wang perfected casual looks by giving them his signature grungy edge.

And no urban look of 2015 can be complete without the introduction of rugged mesh tops, because, let’s remember, it’s still considered a shirt even if the material doesn’t actually cover everything underneath.

What struck me most about this particular collection was how androgynous many of the looks were. In a society where gender lines are becoming blurred, it was as if most of the pieces could work for men or women. Hooded jackets hid models’ hair, coupled with their minimal makeup and the clothes’ baggy appearance in general was very gender neutral.

Wang’s anniversary collection managed to stay true to his original roots, displaying simplistic and urban pieces, while still giving the star-studded crowd something to talk about — other than the stripes of course. –Mariam Sheikh

Yeezy Season 2

At some point in time a lucky few received camouflage shirts in the mail — this fall’s invite to Kanye West’s second collaboration with Adidas. As of yesterday afternoon, Yeezy Season 2 has commenced.

Season 2’s NYFW debut stays consistent with the rigidity of the line’s debut this past February, but takes it one step further. Instead of models lined up in rows and moving forward to unveil a new set of garments, a drill sergeant calls out groups of models and gives them the order to walk. With each new group, on-lookers notice a slight change in the color of the clothing, which also corresponds with the complexion of the models. As the show goes on, both models and clothing move from light shades of beige to black.

The collection itself stays true to Kanye’s aptitude toward the simple. Throughout the show a pattern is nowhere to be seen: only solids, tears and the texture of knit. The collection consists of pieces across the spectrum: tights, excessively baggy hoodies, knit leggings and high heels are just a glimpse into the offerings of Season 2. Diversity aside, the beauty of West’s new line isn’t displayed on the monochromatic models (while they all do look stunning). The beauty lies within the possibilities — the possibilities of mixing and matching across the tones of the collection, or the possibilities of simply incorporating key pieces into a wardrobe.

Ultimately, as with Season One, the most stunning pieces of the show are the shoes and the music. The Adidas Yeezy Boosts, the Yeezy Duck boot and its high-heeled counterpart are the crème de la crème, furthering Kanye’s already strong standing reputation as a shoe designer.  West also opted to use the show to premiere a new track from his forthcoming album, Swish, titled “Fade” featuring Post Malone and Ty Dolla $ign.

Who knows if Yeezus 2020 will be a reality, but one thing is for certain: Kanye West and his commitment to creation and artistry won’t be going anywhere anytime soon. —  Christian Kennedy

Oscar de la Renta

Though the beloved, quippy Erika Bearman (@OscarPRgirl) is soon to switch over to motherhood and the consulting side of the fashion house, she continued to release collection teasers by Fabien Constant on her Instagram, showcasing “The Story of a Dress” — which is essentially the tale of ODLR, a label that prides itself on a quasi-couture mastery of outfitting women. Unsurprisingly, the brilliant cinematography didn’t disappoint, and once again, the house of Oscar de la Renta created fashion of fantasy.

Peter Copping’s sophomore collection — the senior installment of his work if you include the sublime resort and bridal shows under his creative direction — for the house of Oscar de la Renta proves he’s mastered the reins of the label, yet continues to seamlessly imbue a personal panache that we’re still trying to grasp. He’s somehow struck a balance between the label’s rich design tradition and the constant desire for modernity in the ever-evolving fashion world.

Whatever that je ne sais quoi is, it’s working — with his Spring 2016 line, Copping delivers the late de la Renta’s refined romance and amplified femininity with a thematic twist. The collection radiates a rich Hispanic flair with recurring motifs of carnations and crimson, continuous ruching and requisite espadrilles; and of course, no ODLR would be complete without eveningwear that leaves you breathless (I will take personal offense if the stunning lilac ball gown isn’t worn during awards season).

The sartorial sphere will forever miss the beloved tastemaker they found in Oscar de la Renta, and though the void is irreplaceable, Copping continues to eschew any doubts of his succession. — Caroline Filips

Ralph Lauren

Honestly, God bless Ralph Lauren. After a week of overwhelming colors, prints and shapes, one can always count on Ralph to supply a beautiful collection of elegance and classic silhouettes. That is not to say these looks are boring, overdone or stuck in the past. Rather, Ralph delivered 50 looks for the modern woman. No one does red, white and blue like this man. No one.

The collection was bursting with classic summer whites and covered all the essentials — simple cocktail dresses, killer wedges, navy blazers and endless takes on the white pant. Lauren effortlessly blends caramel leather and navy blue sweaters, which included six of the sickest leather jackets you’ve ever seen. Among the sea of perfect stripes, cashmere sweaters and red trench coats, the designer surprised with three looks of eye-popping print. The star of the show was the floor-length chiffon gown featuring this multi-colored geometric print. The collection was beautifully designed and constructed, the norm for Ralph Lauren. It makes for the perfect spring/summer wardrobe, whether by the lake in Northern Michigan or the mediterranean along the Côte d’Azur. — Mara Maclean