NYFW: Oscar de la Renta's glorious renaissance

Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 5:30pm


Courtesy of Oscar De La Renta


If the Oscar woman of the ’60s jumped off the biggest yacht in the French Riviera, then her contemporary counterpart got lost at sea and became a Siren. On Monday when the curtains lifted (not without some technical difficulties), Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim debuted their first collection for the storied house — and with it a new league of women.

Within the past few seasons, the house has found itself steeped in an identity crisis, likely the effect of de la Renta’s unfit successor. Following de la Renta’s passing in 2014, Peter Copping took the reins of the brand and perhaps imbued too much of himself within its revered DNA. Copping abruptly departed in July, leaving the company on their own to produce a spring collection. Read: it was all an avoidable mess. Enter: Garcia and Kim and their rightful place on the creative front. The duo has history at the label — collectively, 18 years. Monday marked a much-needed homecoming for the house.

Before their de la Renta debut, Garcia and Kim unveiled the fall lineup for their own label, Monse. The Oscar show immediately followed, and even shared the runway with Monse for the finale — an industry first. While Monse stayed true to its deconstructed feminine mystique, Oscar de la Renta reclaimed its long lost identity with a modernized bent. For every requisite ball gown bar none and trace of tulle that retained the magic of de la Renta himself, there was something irreverent to delightfully offset it. A silky pink power suit with a sequined corset? Check. Between the quasi-Cruella de Vil fur and the generous doses of saturated separates — all heightened by the model’s vibrant eyelids — it’s clear the de la Renta energy is back in its rightful place.