The 20th annual Victoria’s Secret fashion show was filmed on Nov. 10, but the peasantry of the world will have to wait until Dec. 8 to see it aired on CBS.

This year’s show ushers in a new league of showstoppers, after long-time, iconic Angels Karlie Kloss and Doutzens Kroes walked their final Victoria’s Secret show last year.

Ten models were anointed to be Angels this year, but all eyes will be on the rookies. While nine models will walk in this particular show for the first time, two of them seem to be attracting all of the media attention — top models of the year, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid. Jenner was asked to walk last year, but chose to do the Chanel show instead.

Hadid has modeled for Guess, Versace and starred in several music videos, but for the past two years has been denied a spot in the Victoria’s Secret show. Her acceptance this year is undoubtedly partly due to her rise to fame as part of T-Swift’s girl squad (I kid you not) and friendship with Jenner, but Hadid put in a lot of work too — becoming and being an Angel is far from angelic. Many women work all year to maintain a star physique — only to be denied one of the 47 spots in the show.

In a video the company uploaded to YouTube as part of a series on how the show is produced, casting director John Pfeiffer said out of the 400 to 500 model submissions, he sees 300 auditions and two days of callbacks for around 100 girls.

But, as the show hits its 20-year mark, it becomes a time to look back on what (if anything) has been accomplished by it. The program and brand have consistently shown one unique and extremely demanding body type: thin, tall, light girls with long hair, washboard abs and thigh gaps as wide as the Grand Canyon.

All of which comes at an incredibly demanding physical price for an industry that doesn’t pay what it used to. According to Business Insider, contracts for veteran models like Alessandra Ambrosio are in the millions whereas newer models are only offered a 10th of that.

For some models, the time requirements and stress to stay in shape isn’t worth the pay — Kroes left Victoria’s Secret for better pay in Europe. Famous Angel Miranda Kerr allegedly left because Victoria’s Secret’s extensive demands.

The narrow, demanding body requirements both pushes models out and prevents them from joining in the first place. Voluptuous Kate Upton was denied for her body type, despite being named “Sexiest Woman Alive” by People Magazine.

The brand has said it wants women to not only be attractive, but likeable to other women — insinuating that Upton’s shape and sex appeal deems her unmarketable to other females. If women don’t like the model, they won’t buy the bralette.

Hadid — while not exactly “thick” and nowhere near “fat” —  represents somewhat of a deviation from the wafer model type, and has had to address criticism online because of it. Accepting Hadid into the show is a good start — if only an increment forward.

However, the most monumental change to the show was the brand allowing Angolan model Maria Borges walk her third show with natural hair. Past shows have been predominantly filled with long strands of straight and softly waved hair. Essence reported that Borges told her agent to ask Victoria’s Secret if they would allow her to walk with her natural hair.

“I was nervous, but I had to do it,” Borges said. “When they said ‘yes,’ I didn’t expect it, but I was so happy!”

This approval marks another step forward in diversifying the appearance of the show, but, overall, Victoria’s Secret show has a long way to go before breaking the mold.

The show is great voyeurism: it’s extravagant “fantasy,” and with musical stars like this year’s Ellie Goulding, Selena Gomez and The Weeknd, it’s fun to watch. But it should be taken at face value: a “fantasy.” If you do tune in, watch it over cheesy bread and wine with your girlfriends. Watch it for Selena Gomez, who looked bomb in a low cut black gown (or for her drama with JB). Watch it for the fashion, but don’t watch it for the bodies. These women are genetically blessed and work hard all year to perfect it.

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