It’s always fun to watch a Marchesa runway show, because for that brief amount of time each season, the outfits manage to transcend space and time, bringing audiences to the forefront of a forgotten point in history. This year, each model managed to represent a unique character, equipped with a story out of a fairytale. Just by looking at the designs, it’s evident that no cost or idea was spared. Each design was intricate to the highest level of craftsmanship, not needing the complementation of accessories or jewelry.
Each gown managed to literally jump out at audiences due to 3D ornamentation. Roses, amongst other flowers, tool, ruffles, feathers and fringe all manage to take each outfit a monumental step further in both artistic design and historical context — instead of having a lost-in-time feel, the look is more modern-day and edgy. What put this collection at the brink of stylistic brilliance were the angular tailoring to many of the designs. To that point, some of my least favorite pieces were the free flowing dresses. While angelic in every way, they seemed a bit out of place when compared to the iconic looks from the rest of this year’s collection.
Designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig brought their A-game to this season, with looks that embraced modern trends while still preserving the relics of a forgotten age of regal decadence, this collection, albeit not wearable for the everyday person like myself, sure is a marvel to behold. —Mariam Sheikh
Rebecca Minkoff chose live performers instead of a track to go along with her show, and the music pumped electricity into the room as the models strutted down the runway. Now to the collection, which showcases a neutral color palette. The word “neutral” may sound dull, but the pieces are daring enough on their own, that the use of intense color is not needed.
My favorite piece is a shift dress with short sleeves. The design is white and features big metal circles with a thick chord that weaves its way across the models’ chests. While obviously a V-neck, what takes it to the next level is that it is a lace up V-neck. The chord dangles down almost hitting the bottom of the dress, which stops just before the knees. The worst part of the show was the return of the overrated “LA/NY” T-shirt, it’s out of place as well as basic and unimpressive to say the least.
Minkoff’s collection as a whole was beautiful. Serenity with undertones of edge was all I was hoping for from Rebecca Minkoff, and she delivered just that. —Hannah Sparks
Dian Von Furstenberg, DVF
Supermodels, starlets and socialites alike were feeling the love at Diane Von Furstenberg’s Valentine’s Day affair. The unofficial “Queen of the Wrap Dress” nixed a traditional runway show in favor of transforming her West 14th Street studio into a full-blown discothèque to unveil her latest collection, aptly named “Love Power.”
Calling on an army of top models, the designer showcased her work in what was termed an “experience,” that featured Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner, along with many more of fashion’s favorites, all smiling, laughing and dancing giddily in swishy skirts and flirty frocks.
Resurrecting silhouettes of the ’70s, DVF delivers long, leather trench coats adorned with colorful fur necklines, knee-high boots and camel-toned velvet skirts. The collection boasts a bright palette — poppy pinks, deep reds, flirty purples and shades of blue — with fabrics ranging from velvet to chiffon, leather to tweed, and of course, sequins. The conglomeration of fabrics and colors works to create a collection that is ostentatious yet practical, clothes every girl can wear.
And that is exactly what Von Furstenberg aims to do. The designer told Vogue she designs “clothes that are the girl’s best friend,” which she plans to deliver directly to consumer’s closets, literally. —Jordan Stern
If I had to use one word to describe Alexander Wang’s latest collection it would be “unapologetic.” Taking place in a church setting, this alone sparks my imagination and intrigue. When the first model steps out the lyrics we hear are “warriors go,” some added symbolism, perhaps?
There is definitely a ’90s grunge punk vibe, as indicated from the leather and chain chokers, fuzzy crop tops, chunky lace up sneakers and the oversized denim jackets (featuring rich fur lining). Designs also showcased a range of fabrics from tweed, mesh, fuzz, feathers and, of course, leather. Audiences are constantly bombarded with the repetition of certain words and images. Words such as: strict, girls, tender and images of a weed leaf and strippers. These are the very aspects that make the collection so rebellious, so “sinful” as they are being paraded around in a church.
This show evokes emotion. Whether it is excitement, anger, outrage, intrigue, or happiness, it makes you feel something, which is exactly what fashion is supposed to do. Wang’s collection breaks all the right rules, while being playful and totally badass. —Hannah Sparks
Kim and Kanye were truly ahead of the times when they named their child “North” almost three years ago. Now, it seems fashion is headed in that direction, too, literally. With the theme of Nicole Miller’s fall collection being “#NMGoNorth,” it’s clear that winter weather wear is all the rage. Miller’s latest collection takes her audience on a whirlwind journey through an icy paradise of glorious furs, Nordic-inspired patterns and revamped florals. If Leonardo DiCaprio had a female counterpart in “The Revenant,” she would no doubt be outfitted head-to-toe in Nicole Miller.
Miller sticks to the same dark color scheme she showcased on last year’s runway. However, she moves away from last year’s edgy leather and camouflage, and moves towards a more dreamlike, mystical dark side. This year’s collection utilizes a mixed palette of gilded greys, soft lavenders and touches of bright reds and oranges to accent the darker colors and exude an earthly feel.
The fog-coated runway transported both the collection and the audience to a dreamy winter wonderland. The models floated through the imaginary snow in basic silhouettes — tea-length gowns, structured parkas and high-neck tops. The designer revamped seemingly simple pieces with touches of fur, playful cutouts and intricate floral beading. But looking closely at these details, its evident the collection is not meant to solely capture our inner ice princess. A sleeveless, black floor-length gown boasts complex white stitching of blooming flowers, singing swans and swirling suns — a nod to springtime that never ceases to follow an icy winter. —Jordan Stern