Coach
Coach debuted a new line this year, Coach 1941, to honor “the values at the heart of our unique and storied brand: leather, creativity and craftsmanship.” Stuart Vevers, Coach’s exec creative director, was inspired by Jodie Foster in “Taxi Driver,” Rob Lowe in “Youngblood” and “Scooby-Doo” ’s Velma Dinkley (hello ’70s prints and color schemes!) for this fall ready-to-wear collection.
An inherently preppy brand, Coach transformed Pier 76 into a gymnasium of some private high school for their runway show with floors painted to look like a basketball court. Instead of chairs, attendees sat on leather-cushioned bleachers. Chloë Grace Moretz, Ciara and Emma Roberts sat courtside for the star-studded show.
Many of the models wore varsity jackets with sewn-on appliqués. The heavy use of collegiate-inspired appliqués were also present on leather gym bags. As showcased by the designs in this collection, Vevers is an avid user of shearling and leather for many of his jackets. He played with paisley prints and psychedelic patterns to complement the preppy feel of the varsity jackets and heavy-collared shirts.
If you’re in need of a new fall coat, look no further; this collection had a plethora of jackets from varsity style to fur — and everything in between. Originally known for their handbags, Coach has somewhat reinvented itself as an all-encompassing brand complete with shoes, shirts, dresses and outerwear. — Carly Colonnese
Ralph Lauren
A maven of the fashion scene, a patrician of the style world, Ralph Lauren graced NYFW in customary style: elegance and ingenuity. His latest collection played around with themes and motifs familiar to quintessential American culture, with a generous dose of nostalgia mixed in. After a week of ostentatious colors and silhouettes, Ralph Lauren’s elegantly nuanced approach was a nice change of pace, and a fitting way to top off fashion week.
The collection featured models donning classically tailored trousers and suits in colors like taupe, along with various sets of shirts and ties and healthy doses of tweed to boot. It felt as if Lauren was fashioning a wardrobe fit for the modern Annie Hall (something I laud the man for). Moving to city-wear, the collection had a substantial change in style, but thankfully not to the chagrin of Lauren’s more loyal patrons. Minidresses in black leather, velvet jackets paired with metallic, distressed jeans and an interesting series of Victorian coats with ruffle necks collectively made for an eclectic wardrobe
Closing the collection was Lauren’s token style, an extravagant set of evening wear that I’d be damned not to see featured this March at the Oscars. Among them: a dress that seemed to ape the appearance of liquid gold and finale gowns that were styled in beautiful tones of jewel, floral and paisley.
Lauren, as always, illustrated his fundamental understanding of the diverse demands of his clientele. Featuring outfits for both city and country, his collection had an intelligent answer for every need. — Anay Katyal
Naeem Khan
Khan managed to embody the purest form of the modern day power woman in each of his designs. With capes, velvet and a whole lot of metallic ornamentation, outfits had just the right amount of over-the-top drama.
One design in particular showcased embellished trousers that were meant to drape over models’ shoes, while the matching intricate tunic was made with sleeves long enough to drape over the hands. With hair falling atop the head in every which way, teased to dastardly perfection, each model embodied what it means to be a complex, dark and powerful woman of the world.
Overall, the line showcased visionary creativity to the highest degree, embracing everything we love about vintage and vampy couture. — Mariam Sheikh
Tommy Hilfiger
As all things go for NYFW, the Tommy Hilfiger runway show was ostentatious. Set up to look like a cruise ship straight out of the 1930s — even shuffleboard was artfully painted on the deck — the show had an impressive front row with the likes of Rachel Zoe and Bryanboy, with an even more extraordinary lineup of models, including Gigi Hadid, Sara Sampaio, Taylor Hill and Hailey Baldwin.
Hadid opened the show in a gold jeweled tiara and a chiffon printed dress with a plunging neckline cinched at the waist. What followed was a nautical-meets-modern design. Many of the collared shirts were intricately embellished with sequins and sparkles. Shirts had the classic nautical stripes, but the sleeves were made of leather. With a muted color palette, lots of blues, blacks, creams and golds danced on the runway in pleasing, modernized seafaring apparel.
So what is in for the fall? Hilfiger loves the midi-hemline — the dresses, skirts and coats landed at or below the knee in this collection. A trend that seemingly will continue to fall is the use of delicate, sheer materials paired with delicate, lacy undergarments. — Carly Colonnese
The Row
Created by the consistently successful Olsen twins, The Row has stayed true to its roots since its inception. The brand doesn’t boast flash or succumb to the dismal trends that come and go. Instead, it sticks to classic silhouettes and simple color palettes, enough to sustain an impressive and worthy wardrobe.
This ready-to-wear collection is understated, but powerful. Loosely tailored pants with flared hems were accompanied by intricately layered staple pieces. Featuring long camel and navy coats of various sizes and fits, each look embodied the meaning of effortless chic. In some of the bolder looks, the brand embraced a nude color palette and wasn’t afraid to add ruffles, trims and see-through fabrics to the lightweight and body-hugging dresses, perfect for every occasion from a Hamptons wedding to a night in Soho. Embracing high necks, v-necks and plunging necklines, there was a calculated balance to each assembled outfit — always something to make sure a design didn’t go over-the-top, while still not holding anything back stylistically.
To the untrained eye, outfits in this collection do have a tendency to blend into one another. Still, the beauty of each look lies in the versatility of the hemlines, necklines and impeccable fittings. The Row’s fall 2016 collection is minimalism at the highest caliber. — Mariam Sheikh
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera, the champion of femininity and elegance, always greets NYFW with a welcome embrace of delicate dresses, thin straps and soft colors. Her show, set at the Frick Collection, was a dazzling display of beauty that paralleled that of the surrounding paintings and sculptures.
While elegant and beautiful, Herrera’s designs are never predictable or boring. Just as the crowd adjusted to the large tartan skirts, classic chiffon and chic fur combos, a model floated down the runway in a pink silk gown featuring 3D flower embroideries suspended in front of the audience. Herrera has always been one to surprise her viewers with a quick pop of embroidery, whether it’s the most delicate beading or a silk bomber jacket. The showstopper, though, had to be a light blue long-sleeved gown that was light as a feather, with a belted west and minor slit at the neckline. While many of these dresses are guaranteed gala winners, like the purple drapery slung around Karlie Kloss or Maria Borges’s startling purple halter dress, this little blue one will definitely be seen on the Duchess of Cambridge. — Mara Maclean