MD

2003-10-02

Friday, February 10, 2012

Advertise with us »

Roll Call

BY
BY CHARLES PARADIS AND REBECCA RAMSEY
Daily Weekend Editors
Published October 1, 2003

Chances are, if you tell any student that Ann Arbor boasts 11 Japanese restaurants, they will undoubtedly be astounded. Still, with all of the places to choose from, finding the finest tuna sashimi or eel and cucumber roll can be a daunting task. Weekend Magazine went out to dinner at five restaurants and came up with the best sushi picks for you, whether you are in the mood for an elegant sushi dinner or grabbing a quick lunch.

Godaiko

Those interested in an indulgent sushi experience have to travel down a road less traveled, that road being Oak Valley Drive. For an enjoyable night out (meaning, a great place for a comfortable date) or an excuse to break away from campus, Godaiko answers any appetite's plead for serenity. With almost 40 rolls to choose from and daily two-for-the-price-of-one roll specials, not to mention an extensive menu that boggles the indecisive mind, this is the place to eat sushi.

Owned by the Tsai family, this restaurant treats customers with the utmost respect and serves the most innovative sushi around. The overall quality of the fish is consistently excellent here and the staff graciously assists patrons with their orders. If you tell your waitperson you like spicy food, he or she will know exactly what to recommend.

The minimal d�cor allows for an unpretentious milieu and privacy can be sustained due to standing screens and enclosed rooms for large parties. The best feature is the open ceiling with its exposed rafters, in which printed tapestries are suspended.

One of the only drawbacks about Godaiko is that the salad and miso soup are not free as they are at other restaurants. Yet, the salads here are the best. Served in bigger portions and with a tangy ginger dressing (that is neither creamy nor citrusy), it is actually worth the cost. The miso soup is a production like no other - the server pours the broth into a bowl of steamed vegetables.

The sushi bar is open for diners to observe the sushi chefs engaged in the art of making gastronomic works of genius, such as the Shrimp Net Roll. A simple roll of tempura shrimp, scallion and spices, the focus is one the too-pretty-to-eat freeze-dried wasabi lattice work outside the rice.

If wasabi's too tame for your palate, try the Spicy Thai Shrimp roll, an impressive concoction of breaded Tiger shrimp, tomato, avocado and Godaiko's House Spicy sauce. But be forewarned, this roll is not for the weak, and an on-hand supply of water is essential. The Wasabi roll is another one that clears sinus passages and is definitely worth trying.

Each roll order is served on its own separate dish, which makes each choice appear as a separate work of edible art. Just as beautiful, the Spicy Tuna Bowl is a jewel-like vision of glistening, fresh tuna covered in a chili sauce. Although it may initially seem a bit overwhelming, considering the generous size of the tuna pieces, the taste is very refreshing.

Far away compared to other sushi restaurants, Godaiko requires one to have a car or take a pricy cab ride to get there. But, even though the salad is not free and the tab can become increasingly steep if ignored, the special rolls and unfussy staff promise a memorable meal as soon as you step through the door. Oh, yeah, they also give Andes mints with your bill. That said, check please!

Totoro

This Ann Arbor newcomer is already setting high culinary standards for surrounding sushi restaurants. In hopes of establishing a lucrative stay on State Street, Jane Kim's new venue is conveniently situated among the numerous hot spots for on-campus dining. Since its inception, Totoro already boasts a superior reputation, yet, one question remains: Will the success last?

Upon entering, customers encounter a deluge of Totoro's newness - fresh paint, unscratched wood tables and a feeling of cleanliness stand out and are suggestive of fare that's as fresh as the business itself.

The staff is accommodating about everything from holding the mayo on a spicy tuna roll to understanding a patron's fear of carbohydrates, as they'll wrap any roll in cucumber instead of the traditional seaweed and rice (Note: This is messy, and chopsticks can make these rolls fall apart. The less experienced sushi customer should use his or her hands). Salad and miso soup are complimentary to those who dine in, which is a godsend for college budgets, and, while the salads are tiny, they make sure customers will leave enough room for the main attraction.


|