This summer, yet another franchise restaurant moved into the State Street area this time the battle lines have been drawn across the area"s pizza market, pitting the New York-based Famiglia International, Inc."s Famous Famiglia chain against locally-owned New York Pizza Depot.

When interviewed by the Daily this summer, NYPD manager Mauricio Grillo said he wasn"t concerned with his corporate neighbor down the street because of the quality of his own food.

He"s right.

NYPD seems to be busier than ever and has capitalized on the fact that besides the The Michigan Daily"s snack machine, it"s the only place between the Diag and downtown that"s open past 2 a.m.

Frequenters of Scorekeepers Thursday nights have made NYPD the place for post-last call revelry. Even after this summer"s renovations, NYPD is not a glamorous place, but it by no means a dump. The environment (especially after S"keepers lets out) is loud and clamorous and the staff always seem a little frustrated and frazzled, but are equally friendly and determined to make and deliver the finest pizza in town. NYPD"s specialty slices are what they are known for. Try the chicken pesto, sundried tomato or ziti. Their garlic knots and foccacia sandwiches are a good bet as well.

Although NYPD, at 605 E. William St., is located in Ann Arbor and not New York, the restaurant embodies the definition of authentic.

Down the street at the corner of East William and South State streets, Famous Famiglia is a different story.

The establishment is clean, borderline sterile and the service is good. And though I prefer NYPD because I"ve been going there since freshman year and I think the pizza is far superior, Famous Famiglia rubs me the wrong way.

When you walk in, it hits you immediately. The restaurant commits a key dining sin it advertises itself everywhere inside the establishment. From the celebrity endorsements (including three identical pictures of Adam Sandler) on the walls to pictures Mamma Rosa (I"ll get back to Mamma) at Famous Famiglia"s tomato fields in Modesto, Calif., the restaurant seems to be concentrating on why it"s so great rather than on its own food.

The restaurant touts slogans like, "Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you." the Golden Rule. Isn"t that nice? (Though I must say that their service is quite good.)

Famous Famigila has elevated Roza Kolaj (or "Mamma") to the level of a deity. She"s everywhere in the restaurant. I"m sure that Mamma"s original restaurant in New York was excellent. But the tendency of restaurants that aim at attracting investors to catapult themselves to the level of super-franchise is that with each location they open, the quality of food decreases.

For people who like the Olive Garden, Sbarro"s and other "Eyetayan" eateries where they think slapping mariana sauce on pasta equals "gourmet" food, Famous Famigila is the place for you.

But if you"re looking for a established Ann Arbor tradition, go to NYPD. In the end, its loyal customers and authenticity will make NYPD the king of William Street take-out.